Pairings | Smoked salmon

Which wines to drink on St Patrick’s Day
It’s hard to avoid the obvious on St Paddy’s Day. Guinness, Bailey’s and Irish whiskey are the usual suspects but if none of these appeals here are the sort of wines that will work with classic Irish fare.
Oysters
Here’s where the Guinness comes in but if you don’t like Guinness, what then? A crisp white like Chablis, Muscadet or Picpoul de Pinet hits the spot
Smoked salmon and soda bread
Sauvignon Blanc is a better match for smoked salmon than champagne if truth be told. I’d go for one from the Loire myself like a Sancerre, Pouilly Fumé or - bargain drinking - Côteaux du Giennois, available in Majestic and Marks & Sparks
A lovely recipe from TV’s Rachel Allen. The blissful combination of shellfish and cream generally calls for a Chardonnay. Chablis would be classic but any other cool climate chardonnay would do. Or try an Italian white like Soave or Gavi
Irish stew
A plain, old-fashioned dish that works better with beer (bitter or pale ale rather than Guinness, I suggest) than with wine to be honest. Otherwise try a decent (but not too alcoholic) Côtes du Rhône or a mature Rioja
Again I really like stout with this kind of dish but wine-wise I’d be looking at a cru Beaujolais or other Gamay, an inexpensive red Burgundy or a young Syrah. Natural wines with their vivid fruit flavours work well with ham. Try the Raisins Gaulois I recommended in the Guardian a while back. Cider would also be a good pairing.
Another classic St Patrick’s Day dish from Darina Allen. Basically this is boiled salted brisket and vegetables - a simple meal that will make any accompanying wine taste sweeter than it otherwise would. I’d probably go for an inexpensive red Bordeaux though you could drink a crisp white like an Aligoté, Chablis or Grüner Veltliner.
Beef and Guinness pie or stew
Anything cooked in Guinness like these braised beef and champ pies or sausages in Guinness gravy are a good match with Guinness or other stouts or porters. Wine-wise I’d go for a robust Languedoc red, Syrah or Malbec
Roast rib of beef with horseradish sauce
There’s a long tradition of Irish-owned chateaux in Bordeaux so a good claret would be in keeping with the occasion. But any medium-to full-bodied red you enjoy is going to do the trick.
An Irish cheeseboard
Ireland has some fantastic cheeses like Adrahan, Coolea, Gubbeen and Cashel Blue though they tend to be quite strong. I’m not sure this isn’t an occasion to crack open a bottle of vintage port if you’ve got one. A good Late Bottled Vintage or 10 year old tawny if you haven’t.
There’s no classic St Patrick’s Day dessert that I’m aware of. Darina’s Rhubarb Bread and Butter pudding would do nicely (I’d pair a Sauternes with that) or try these clever Irish whiskey shots with a cream float from Rachel Allen
Photograph © Brent Hofacker - Fotolia.com

The best food and wine pairings for Valentine’s Day
If you’re planning a special meal for Valentine’s Day you may be wondering which wine to pair with your menu. I’ve picked some favourite Valentine’s Day foods and suggested some matches that should work well with them.
Asparagus
If served on its own with melted butter or a hollandaise sauce a subtle, creamy white burgundy or chardonnay would be the most seductive choice. If dressed with a vinaigrette or in a salad with seafood I’d go for a crisper white like a Sancerre, Pouilly Fumé or other top quality sauvignon blanc.
Camembert
Camembert baked in its box makes a sexy instant fondue but isn’t the easiest of dishes to pair with wine (even trickier than when it’s served cold). Funnily enough a glass of champagne - or similar style sparkling wine - works surprisingly well or go for a dry white like a Chablis.
Caviar (or, more likely, a caviar imitation)
Dry champagne. (Vodka is arguably better but not as romantic.)
Chocolate (dark)
There are possibilities with wine (sweet reds like Maury or Quady’s seductive Elysium being good choices - see
www.quadywinery.com) but my own preferred option with dark chocolate is a frozen shot of cherry brandy or other fruit-flavoured spirit or liqueur or a small glass of sloe or damson gin. An orange-flavoured liqueur like Grand Marnier also works well.
Chocolate (white)
An ice-cold raspberry-flavoured wine or liqueur like Southbrook Winery’s Framboise from Canada. Especially if the dessert includes raspberries.
Duck
Pinot Noir. Look to New Zealand and Chile for the best value
Ice cream (vanilla)
Tricky with wine. A toffee or chocolate-flavoured liqueur is your best bet. Very sweet PX sherry can be wonderful poured over it.
Ice cream (chocolate)
Try a coffee-flavoured liqueur like Toussaint or Kahlua.
Lobster
Good white burgundy (or other chardonnay) or vintage champagne.
Wine with lobster: 5 of the best pairings
Oysters
Champagne or Chablis. Not Guinness on Valentine’s Night, I suggest.
Passion fruit
Can be quite sharp so you need a very sweet wine to balance it. A sweet riesling or late harvest semillon or sauvignon blanc will work well. If it’s mixed with a creamy base as in a passion fruit brulée you could drink a sweet (demi-sec) Champagne or other dessert wine. Or a passion fruit flavoured beer. (Yes, such drinks exist! Try Floris from Belgium.)
Prawns/shrimp
If you’re serving a classic prawn cocktail I suggest a dry or off-dry riesling which would also work with an Asian-style stir-fry or salad. A sparkling rosé - including champagne - would be a suitably kitsch all-pink choice.
The best pairings for prawns or shrimp
Smoked salmon
Champagne on this occasion. But see
Scallops
Made for top white burgundy or other really good chardonnay. Champagne is also spot on if that’s what you’re drinking.
Top wine pairings with scallops
Steak
The best full-bodied red you can afford. Whatever turns your partner on . . .
My 5 top wine and steak pairing tips
Strawberries
If served plain and unadorned, gently sparkling Moscato d’Asti or Asti is lovely or go for the luscious
Fragola liqueur. If they’re served with cream you could serve a classic sweet wine like Sauternes.
My top pairings with strawberries
Image © 9MOT at shutterstock.com

Which foods pair best with whisky?
I’ve been a bit of a sceptic in the past about pairing food with whisky. Not that there aren’t some great combinations but I find it hard to sustain for more than one dish.
Whisky distillers are constantly trying to persuade me to the contrary, inviting me to events pairing whisky with Indian or Italian food but it all seems slightly forced. Even for a whisky lover there are other drinks that work better.
However there are exceptions and here are some suggestions, divided up by whisky style, with some additional input from whisky writer Dave Broom. You may be suprised at some of the suggestions. Whisky with sushi? Whisky with smoked duck? Whisky with dark chocolate and ginger biscuits? Bring it on!
Light fragrant whiskies with a touch of sweetness
Sushi (though whisky expert Dave Broom tells me that other styles can work well too)
Smoked salmon (especially wild salmon and other delicate smokes)
Dressed crab
Cullen skink (smoked haddock soup)
Cock-a-leekie (clear chicken and leek soup)
Parsnip soup
Kedgeree
Bread and butter pudding
Cranachan (whipped cream and whisky with toasted oatmeal and raspberries)
Soft, creamy cheeses
Medium bodied whiskies with some peat influence
Smoked mackerel
Smoked mussels
Smoked oysters
Smoked duck
Smoked venison
Duck or chicken liver paté
Seared scallops and bacon
Black cod (Nobu-style) - also good with the Japanese whisky Hanyu King of Diamonds apparently
Haggis
Roast or braised pheasant
Pheasant or guineafowl with a creamy wild mushroom sauce
Full-bodied rich whiskies aged in sherry casks
Seared or grilled steak
Char siu pork
Roast venison especially with caramelised/roast root vegetables
Rich fruit cakes e.g. Christmas cake
Christmas pudding
Mince pies
Pecan pie
Sticky toffee pudding
Gingerbread
Dark chocolate and ginger biscuits
Dark chocolate brownies
Mature cheddar
Washed-rind cheeses
Strong, peaty whiskies e.g. Lagavulin, Laphroaig
I’m cautious about these because of their powerful flavours but Dave urges you to be bold! He advocates scallops and bacon and dark chocolate (not on the same plate, obviously) with a peaty whisky, for example
Anchovy-based spreads or dips
Hot-smoked salmon
Bottarga
Haggis
Tea-smoked chicken
Mature farmhouse cheddar
Strong blue cheeses, especially Roquefort
See also these suggestions for peaty whiskies I came up with following a visit to Islay.
Bear in mind that some whiskies, especially cask-strength ones, may need a splash of water to work with food
Photograph by barmalini at shutterstock.com

The best pairings for fino and manzanilla sherry
Manzanilla, as you probably know, is a fino sherry made in the port of Sanlucar de Barrameda rather than in the cities of Jerez or Puerto de Santa Maria which gives it its characteristic salty tang.
Like fino it needs to be served chilled and drunk fresh so always buy from a shop or online retailer that has a good turnover of bottles
From a food point of view the two are very similar though I would tend to go more for manzanila with seafood and fino with meat and cheese. What both have in common is that they can handle strong flavours like garlic and chilli and tricky to pair ingredients such as asparagus and artichokes.
Both are obviously very good with Spanish cuisine (especially tapas) but lend themselves well to other dishes such as smoked salmon, fish and chips and sushi. Treat the suggestions below as just that - suggestions - and don’t be afraid to swop them around:
Food matches for manzanilla
All kinds of seafood including:
grilled and fried squid
octopus and octopus salad
mussels, especially with chorizo
anchovies
oysters
raw fish such as sashimi or tartares
fried fish (and chips)
fried soft-shell crab
fish soups
feta cheese (such as this dish of beetroot borani from Morito)
pickled fish such as mackerel en escabeche
grilled fish, especially oily fish like sardines
garlicky prawns or shrimp
smoked salmon
smoked mussels
smoked dried beef
Food pairings for fino
nuts, especially almonds
olives and olive pastes like tapenade
jamon/ham
grilled or preserved artichokes
hard sheeps’ cheeses such as Manchego
chorizo
tortilla
grilled asparagus or leeks with romesco sauce
white asparagus
pimientos de padron
clams cooked with sherry
cider-battered onions (from my good friends Dan and Elly of The Basement supper club
croquetas
tandoori salmon and teriyaki salmon
white gazpacho
sushi, sashimi, tempura and any kind of Japanese food where you would drink sake
Food matches for 'en rama' styles
These are unpasteurised versions of either fino or manzanilla which have a limited shelf-life but a more intense flavour and texture
richer, hot or sauced fish dishes
grilled tuna
black rice with cuttlefish arroz negro
deep-fried sweetbreads
hake with allioli (garlic mayonnaise)
Japanese food generally
More food and sherry matches:
- The best food pairings for dry oloroso sherry
- The best food pairings for amontillado and palo cortado sherry
- The best food pairings for sweet oloroso and PX sherry
Download the e-book
If you love sherry but haven't got beyond sipping it with a few nuts and olives, then download my e-book, 101 great ways to enjoy sherry, packed full of pairings, recipes, cocktails, and more. Click here to download.
Top photograph © delarue - Fotolia.com

15 Easter wine pairings to learn by heart
If you're wondering what wines you should buy for Easter weekend here's quick guide to what I think are the best Easter wine pairings.
As with my previous ‘learn by heart’ posts it's a simple way to remember great food and wine matches at a busy time of year. There are of course other possibilities to which the links will guide you.
Colomba Pasquale and extra dry prosecco
Colomba Pasquale is the traditional Italian Easter cake and ‘extra dry’ prosecco perversely a slightly sweeter style that is perfect with sweeter things.
You can drink so many red wines with lamb (Chianti and Cabernet being two other favourites) but rioja is such a crowd-pleaser. I’d go for a reserva myself.
Roast chicken (or turkey) and pinot noir
Hey, it’s spring (or supposed to be) so lighten up with a brighter, fruitier red. Pinot is perfect
Baked or roast ham or gammon could also take a pinot but I’m rooting for a good Beaujolais like a Morgon
And yes, here’s pinot noir again! But you can’t find a better pairing with duck. Especially with peas.
Roast kid and Chianti
Kid would be a traditional Mediterranean choice for the Easter feast so I’d be inclined to go for an Italian, Greek or Portuguese red. Chianti is the easy-to-memorise option.
Depends how you cook it but salmon pretty well always works with chardonnay. Especially en croute or in a creamy sauce. (If it’s smoked salmon try sauvignon blanc.)
Maybe you’re planning a fish pie for Good Friday? Again chardonnay is a reliable match - I’d go for a Chablis.
Asparagus and Sancerre
There are major arguments over which wine suits asparagus best but Sancerre (or Pouilly Fumé) does it for me. Especially if goats cheese is involved. Other optionshere
Scrambled eggs and champagne (or cheaper fizz)
What else are you going to drink for Easter brunch? Seriously - eggs and bubbles is the way to go. (It works with eggs benedict too)
Torta pasquale (Italian spinach and ricotta pie) and Soave
Or any other smooth dry Italian white come to that. Like Gavi. Here's a lovely recipe from Gennaro Contaldo or, following the recommendation below, from Rachel Roddy. A great option for vegetarians.
Simnel cake and orange pekoe tea
Perfect combination!
Hot cross buns and marsala
I owe this one to the Italian wine buyer at M & S Jeneve Williams. (They have a really well-priced half bottle of marsala you should try which is no doubt why they came up with the suggestion!). Nice recipe here too.
Easter eggs and Brachetto d’Aqui
If you’re scoffing the remains of the kids’ Easter eggs this sweet, gently sparkling Italian red is hard to beat. But also hard to find, unfortunately. If you’re stumped try a rosato frizzante (pink prosecco by another name though they’re not allowed to call it that)
Lemon tart and late harvest riesling
Lemon tart can be tricky with wine - the more intensely lemony the tougher it is. The trick if you want to serve a dessert wine with it? Add cream either to the tart or a good splodge over the top. Late harvest riesling has the acidity to cope
You may also find these posts useful:
What sort of food to pair with prosecco
20 food and wine pairings to learn by heart
The best wine matches with salt cod (traditional Good Friday fare in Mediterranean countries such as Spain and Portugal.)
Photo by Elena Veselova at shutterstock.com
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